COBBLE- Cobb's On Budget - not much Bigger but Lots better brake Enhacement

A proven package of modifications to the Acura NSX brake system for high-performance track and street use consisting of:

Here we are on a nice sunny day at Doug’s house ready to perform several popular and proven racing brake system modifications to our cars.




Step 1: Jack up the car, remove the wheels, and have a clove! :)

 
 

Step 2: Take off the brake pads and put the calipers on a milk crate or something similar to support them – don’t just leave them hanging on the line!
Step 3: Next, off comes the rotors! Remember, you have to use an impact Philips screwdriver to get those pesky little countersunk Philips screws off the rotor. A regular Philips hand screwdriver will not work – you will only strip the screw…

 
 

At this point, this is what you should be seeing.
Step 4: Remove the hub unit.
This is what it looks like afterwards.

 
 

The hub unit makes for a neat toy!

 
 

Step 5: Remove the large tin “splash guard” and replace the hub unit.
Step 6: Re -Install the rotor
 
 
Step 7: Install the caliper assembly. This is a good time to clean and lubricate the caliper slide rails with a good quality automotive grease. Also, for high-performance track use, you may want to replace your brake pads with a semi-metallic race or race/street compound pad, such as is offered by Porterfield, RM, Dali, or Comptech. These pads will take longer to warm up, but will resist heat and fade better during all-out driving.

 

Step 8: Install the Stainless Steel braided brake lines. Start with a 10mm flair wrench as shown.

 
Step 9: Install the banjo bolt (caliper) side of the stainless steel lines. Be very very very careful not to overtorque and snap those little banjo bolts…ask Brent how he knows! :)

 

Step 10: (Front Wheels Only) Remove the tiny OEM air deflectors, and replace them with the big Dali Air deflectors to better cool those hot front rotors.
Step 11: Install the speedbleeder on the caliper, replacing the OEM bleeding bolt.

 

Step 12: Take a breather! You are done with one of four wheels! 

Repeat the process on the remaining 3 wheels. On the rear calipers, remember also to remove the emergency brake cables before taking off the calipers. It may also be easier to snip the rear splash shield off - depends if you want to keep them.

 
 

Once you are done with all four wheels, you need to bleed out the air in the brakelines. This is an easy procedure with the speedbleeders! Just open the speedbleeder 1/4 turn, put a piece of tube over them, running into a water bottle, and pump the brakes a few times. This is an excellent opportunity to replace the DOT3 OEM fluid with a higher-temperure DOT4 rated racing brake fluid such as Motul or ATE Super Blue. Bleeding the brakes is fun! Just ask Moazzam!

 

From: Marc
To: NSX@LISTSERV.NSX.NET
Subject:  New Brake Upgrade Page

We had a little "brake party" get together this weekend here in Dallas where Brent showed us all how to remove the splash guards, install the Dali air deflectors, replace the pads, install speedbleeders, and bleed the brakes. It's a set of upgrades that anyone interested in high-performance driving should consider, and know how to do. I was always a bit intimidated with working on the brake system because of the obvious safety implications of doing something wrong, but completing these service items are surprisingly very easy. It's a great feeling to now have the confidence to be able do these things. Since we took pictures of each step, we though it might be nice to share how easy these procedures may be done. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

From: Doug Carlson
To: NSX@LISTSERV.NSX.NET
Subject: Re: [NSX] New Brake Upgrade Page

All,

Dallas brake day was a blast. Removing the front splash guards (dust shields whatever) is much easier than I expected. I will admit it helped to have Brent Cobb and a SERVICE MANUAL handy..... I understand .. I really get it now... torque settings, explanations, exploded views... very helpful. I must admit that the cooling factor will be tested at Texas World speedway but I love the fact that you can see the suspension and under the car through the wheel now. Coolness factor increase BIG TIME... oh and decreased fade through better cooling will be nice also. 

;^)

Doug Carlson
91 BLK/BLK
Comptech Stainless Lines/Speed bleeders/Motul 600/Upgrade Pads/no dust shields front or rear/ newly flushed
I nominate that we call this the " C obb - O n B udget - not much B igger but L ots better -  brake E nhancement" or "Cobble" for short
From: Brent Cobb 
Subject: RE: Brake Install Party

Howdy Dudes,
I just thought I'd mention that you probably will not "feel" a huge difference is braking capability/distance.  This is a big generalization, however.  Moazzam, the new pads you installed will help you when you are
"maximizing" your braking - i.e. braking from 120-70 or so on the track for example.  You may feel a little "grippier" feel with those RM pads as they form to your OEM rotors, but they'll really shine on the track when the brakes are enduring high temperatures.  Of course, your lines will allow a firmer feel, and the deflectors will allow you to have an overall cooler
braking mechanism at speed.  Mix all of these small aspects together, and you'll have a great high-speed brake package.  All in all, new rotors would not really "help" your brakes too much - slotted/cross-drilled help with outgassing/green gas, but really do not help the overall effectiveness - but they don't hurt either.  I replaced mine with C/D rotors because my OEM's
were too far gone. 

So, congrats on the brakes.  You WILL notice a big difference on the track - especially in the last few laps of your sessions when they're hot.  Love your brakes and they'll love you back!  That's what the grease is for...

Take care,
Brent